Recommended Device to Use with LCD Dash Display
1. Device
A. I have found the best all around device to use is a RaspberryPi 4B(4GB). With this device you will need a few additions to make it work with your Dash Display.
B. You will need a USB Type C cable for powering the PI.
C. You will also need a Micro HDMI to HDMI cable to connect between the PI and the Dash Display. This cable should be between 36-48” Long.
D. Lastly you will need at least an 8GB Micro SD Card. Do Not Skimp on the brand,it is important to avoid troubleshooting software issues.
- Power Source
To connect the PI to your vehicle’s electrical system you will need a voltage converter. I do not recommend using a standard socket type converter as it may not allow enough amps and can cause power issues with the PI. Instead use a dedicated power converter. The PI will require no more than 5 volts.
I recommend using the DROK USB 12vt to 5vt voltage converter. It features USB outlets to connect your usb cable to and a pigtail that wires it into your vehicle’s wiring. It’s a simple and easy design that works well.
You will also require a shutdown timer, I recommend using the DROK Timer, you will need 2, 1 for Power Cut Off and the other for PI Shutdown. The timer features a variety of settings on a LCD Screen with push buttons for settings. The Setting you will use is P7, and then adjust the timer up or down to the time duration of your choice.
How this timer works is that when pos or neg is applied( turned ON) to its signal pins, it activates a relay that will then power up your PI and Screen. When the signal inputs are turned off, the timer will begin a countdown. The duration of the timer should be much longer then the duration of the PI shutdown Timer ( See more info about PI Timer in TSDASH part of this guide). This timer gives the PI enough time to safely shut down before all power is cut and the PI is powered off. This also gives a grace period during shut down, if the signal Pins are repowered before the timer has runout, the timer resets and will remain on until signal pins are turned off again and the countdown begins again at full time. This works great for situations such as power cycling a megasquirt, the system will remain on during the power cycle and no additional bootup of the PI is required.
Power Cut Off Timer
You will be using setting P7:0P and adjusting the time up, I recommend at least 70 seconds minimum.
Timer Input Triggers
The timer can use a Neg or Pos or Both Input triggers, such as the POS can be used for the ignition when it’s turned on, The Neg can be used for the door trigger when a door is opened. Using both these inputs will allow the PI and screen to boot immediately after a door is opened, if the door remains open the system stays on. If the door is closed the timer countdown until the door is re-opened, or the key is turned on. If neither situation happens before the time runs out, the system powers down. If the key is turned on, the system stays powered on while the door is closed.
This configuration offers the advantage of a faster boot up. Typically, with a Key to on position only setup, the PI will take 30 seconds to fully boot.
Using the door to preboot the PI can cut that down to however many more seconds it takes you to sit in the car and turn the key (5-10sec?) Its not a lot, but it all counts.
One issue with this configuration is if you use a deadman switch on your car. If your deadman switch is off and either door is open before the deadman switch is turned on, The Drok Timer will not work and your system will not boot. All doors need to be closed before the deadman switch is turned on.
PI Shutdown Timer
Technically this timer can be replaced with just a single micro relay or transistor, but I use it in this guide because its simple to understand for a novice.
This timer will be used to tell the PI when to shutdown, This timer will also use setting P7:0P and adjust the time up, I recommend 30 seconds shorter then the power cut off timer. The PI can shutdown very quickly but its better safe than sorry. If your PI does not shutdown before power is cut, your SD Card will get corrupted and whatever settings you have on it will be lost.
Wiring for these timers are as shown:
- Software Indicators
If you are choosing to use software supported indicators, buying a GPIO breakout board for your PI will be very convenient. This will allow you to easily attach the stock gauge cluster wires to the PI.
My guide does not explain the process of using and wiring software type indicators, generally this is easily done by a person with electrical experience but do use caution by including diodes to control reverse polarity and possible transistors to eliminate any possibility of over powering the PI. The PI can only receive 0-5vt inputs.
- Additions
It is recommended to put your PI in a case to avoid unwanted shorting and equip it with a fan and heatsinks.
5.Software
The software you will be using is called TSDash by EFI Analytics, its a condensed version of Tunerstudio’a full screen display. How this software functions Ill explain like your typical windows PC.
When the software boots, it will boot to a desktop then immediately TSDash software will take over the screen and display the dash you selected it to display. If your controller such as megasquirt is plugged into the PI, TS Dash will immediately show online status mode with gauges that react in real time.
At any time, either online with or without engine running, or offline you can use a mouse or keyboard to close or minimize the TSDash display and go back to the desktop. From here there are options to switch to Tunerstudio or Megalog viewer. The software runs on PiOS, so you also can change or view all settings related to the OS, such as bluetooth, wifi, browse the internet, open a CMD prompt, write notes, etc.
6.Software Install
This software is straightforward and very easy to install to the PI. To install you will need an imager software/app on your PC such as Raspberry PI imager, it is free. You then download the TSDash software from EFYAnalytics, the beta version is free to try. You write the image to your SD and simply pop the SD into the PI and boot it up. The first time takes a minute, afterwards it’s seconds. From there you can trial the software and use it with some limitations. Paying for the software opens up a lot of expandability such as inputs, outputs.
The paid version is worth it if you want your dash setup to have full potential.
Below is a picture outlining the full potential with the setup I’m using. I am able to run TSDash on the Dash Display while simultaneously connected wirelessly to the PI with a laptop and tune on the controller while the dash is displaying. Im also able to connect a GPS to the PI for performance information
