Mounting and Wiring
Typically the battery is mounted in the rearrest of the trunk, but it could be mounted anywhere you choose.You can attach the ground at the rear seat buckle location. The positive wire must be ran to the existing fuse box connection. This can be ran under the car attached to the brake lines, or inside of the car – but must go thru the firewall. Do not go thru the door and around the A pillar as this a potential area to short out the wiring and cause a fire.
The Relocation Kit –
Now that you will have a turbo mounted where the battery tray was, you will need to relocate the battery. If you have a OEM battery then you will need to buy a sealed box. OEM battery’s are vented battery’s, they will expel gasses from the battery during loads/being charged. If they are not sealed, the fumes can be a hazard to your health and cause nausea / headaches from extended periods of driving in the fumes. If you have a sealed battery such as a Optima or AGM type, then you do not need a box but will need a battery mounting bracket/enclosure for the battery group size you have.
1a. Most battery relocation kits come with everything you need and then some, however it can be done cheaper by just buying only the parts you need.
Recommended battery cable size and lengths
| Cable | Size | Length |
| Positive | 2.0 AWG | 12ft |
| Negative | 0-1.0 AWG | 3ft |
Optional Safety
I recommend installing a 150amp-200amp Marine type circuit breaker about 4inch off the battery, in line with the positive wire going to the front of the car. This should be a fail-safe in case you have a short in the future from improper routing and rubbing of wires. Without this breaker, if you have a short you will have a car on fire being 10ft of battery cable will be glowing red hot its entire length thru the car. If this out of the question for you, then at least install a Battery Kill switch 4inch off the battery in line with the positive wire, if a problem arises, you can kill the battery power quickly before the damage escalates to a fire.
