Upgraded Polyurethane Trailing Arms
Providing superior control and stability!
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- Description
- Additional information
- Specifications
- Video
- Build Time
- Installation
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- Vehicle Fitment
Our Upgraded Trailing Arms use polyurethane bushings, resulting in decreased chassis body roll and suspension flex. The result of these upgraded trailing arms is a direct responsive rear suspension with minimized deflection.
Why Upgrade your Trailing Arms?
The OEM trailing arms by design are easy to damage/bend and allow for excessive of suspension flex resulting in body roll. Additionally when the rubber bushings deteriorate or become damaged , the entire arm assembly must be replaced.
Why Urethane?
Production vehicles are built using rubber bushings in control arms, strut arms, leaf springs, body mounts, motor mounts, transmission mounts, sway bars and shocks. Additionally, rubber components can be found as coil spring pads, leaf spring pads and suspension bump stops. While rubber components offer a soft side, for typical driving conditions, they tend to deteriorate rapidly from exposure to the elements. This contributes to premature component failure, resulting in a “spongy” ride and loss of performance handling. Urethane is impervious to gas and oil and will not rot and is stronger that rubber.
Paint Color | Bare Metal, Custom, Gloss Black |
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Bushing Color | Black, Red |
Specifications
- Our Upgraded Trailing armsare constructed of .120WA square steel tubing and incorporate Prothane Polyurethane bushings
Video
Build Time
All King6fab parts are made to the order. I do not stock parts, I only stock materials to make parts. When an order is placed, it is fabricated special for you.
Fabrication Time Terms & Conditions
Below are the average estimated times before an order is ready to ship. This does not include shipping times.
Times are subject to change without notice.
Single Item Orders | 2-3 Days |
1-2 Item Orders | 3-6 Days |
Order placed on or day before weekend/holidays: | 4-10 Days |
2 or more Item Orders | 6-15 Days |
Installation
This installation is rather straight forward, King6fab put this guide together to aid in common issues that come up when removing the OEM trailing arms. It is not required to remove either of the rear wheels to swap your trailing arms, however it may make it easier.
This process typically takes up to an hour or less with moderate tool accessibility.
First you will need to jack up the rear of the vehicle, the fastest approach to this is by jacking in the center of the rear sub-frame, get the vehicle high enough that you can work under it then place jack stands on each side of the vehicle. OEM trailing arms are usually very rusted and degraded and could be a hassle to remove. Start with the front shackle bolt, this bolt has a nut on the backside towards the pinchweld, and its tack welded to the body of the vehicle. Often this tack weld nut will break loose when trying to loosen the bolt, its recommended to have a wrench or vice grip on the nut while torquing on the bolt.
Tack Weld nut Problems – If The tack welded nut should break loose on you and/or is stripped out, your best approach towards this is using a cold chisel and hammer against it or a cut it off with a dia-grinder.
Next remove the bracket for the Ebrake cable, often these nuts will bust off studs when attempting to remove them. This wont be an issue later on as the King6fab trailing arms come with new zinc coated hardware. Proceed to remove the large collar nut that connects the trialing arm to the hub, this usually comes off without fail, but should you have trouble try using a torch to heat the nut up prior to removal.
Now your ready to install the King6fab Trailing Arms, before bolting them on, be sure to clean up the mounting brackets with steel wool/emry cloth and apply anti-seize to aid in future removal and decreasing chances of road noise. The orientation of the Ebrake Cable bracket is compeltely up to you, it can be on top or on bottom. We specifically decal the trailing arms so that they can be mounted in a position decided by the customer, decal towards the inside of the vehicle or outside of the vehicle.
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