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38. Don’t forget to re-install the magnetic drain ring!! Clean it off thoroughly and just drop it in.
Once it’s all together, you’ll need to fiddle with the shifter (on the outside of the case, where the actual shifter linkage attaches to) and using a screwdriver or similar tool for leverage, shift through the gears ensuring all gears are shifting smooth. You may need to install and remove the outer case a few times, as without the case, the shafts can move around and simulate bad or notchy shifting.
39. Once you are satisfied the gears all shift smoothly, it’s time to reinstall the outer case for good. Before doing so, use a razor blade to scrape away any excess old gasket sealant or material. Then using a 3M scotch brite pad, give it a final cleanup
40. With the outer case re-installed, it’s time to thread in the 12mm bolts we removed earlier and thread in all the large 15mm bolts that hold the case together. Don’t forget to re-install the spring and ball into the case for the reverse lever!! [14mm bolt] The ball goes in first, then the spring.
41. Now comes the 5th gear swap part…simply slide the new gears over the shaft and re-install the fork arm and sleeve pin. Pay very close attention to the syncros. It’s very important that they are seated properly. If you look closely, they are notched in such a way, that they only fit in one way….the right way
43. Using the same method to clean the mating surfaces of the case, scrape away all the old gasket/silicone from the case and 5th gear cover pan surfaces and do a final clean with a 3M scotch brite pad. Apply some Ultra-Grey silicone to the mating surfaces and install all the bolts.
44. Re-install the cover pan bolts and tighten.
