This is a simplified guide to diagnosis common problems with the 1993-1994 Distributor. This guide was made easy so that anyone can try with a basic electrical test light. Incandescent or LED type test lights can be used.
Step 1. Testing for Power (Figure 1)
Here we are testing for 12 volt power to the distributor. This is quickly done by attaching the clamp end of your test light to the negative battery terminal. With the Ignition key to the “ON” position, begin by probing the wire 3 identified in Figure 1. If you have power, the test light will light up.
If you do not have power, the test light will not light up.
Possible causes are:
- The ignition relay is bad.
- Bad connection in the wiring harness.
- On ATX modules, it could be from the neutral safety switch.
Step 2. Testing for ECU Trigger Signal (Figure 2)
Here we are testing to see if the ecu is triggering the Igniter to fire the coil. This is quickly done by attaching the clamp end of your test light to the positive battery terminal. Stick the probe into the wire 1 shown in Figure 2, With the key on, begin cranking the motor to attempt to start it. This may require help from another person, or placing the test light in a way that you can see it thru windshield. While cranking the motor over, the test light should light up Flickering rapidly if the trigger is working correctly.
Possible causes are:
- Bad Crank sensor or crank sensor wiring shorting out
- Loose or broken ECU Grounds
- Bad or broken connection in wiring harness
Step 3. OHM Testing the OEM Internal Coil
In this process we are using Figure 3 to reference what pins to test coming out of the distributor. Before doing any testing, First unplug the small 3-pin plug from the distributor. You will be touching your leads to the internal pins coming out of the distributor “the socket”.
Primary OHMS (Figure 3)
OEM Specs are 0.6 to 1.1
To Test Primary OHMS, use your ohm meter and touch one lead to Pin 1 coming out of the distributor and the other lead to pin 3 coming out of the distributor.
Secondary OHMS (Figure 4)
OEM Specs are 11.5K to 18.5K
To Test Secondary OHMS, First Remove the distributor cap. Use your ohm meter and touch one lead to pin 3 coming out of the distributor and touch the other lead to the Coil Tower metallic end coming out of the distributor.
